Volnay 1er Cru "Les Taillepieds" 2008, de Montille
I have always been a fan of this venerable Volnay estate since I first visited in the mid-1990s. Certainly it vies with Domaine Michel Lafarge for Volnays with great ageing potential. It was a sad moment for all Burgundy fans when Hubert de Montille died in November 2014. Perpetuating his legend, he passed away at dinner with a glass of Pommard "Les Rugiens" 1999 to hand. The only doubt in my mind about ordering this bottle was whether it would be too early. Better to drink hope than despair, so we took the plunge and were royally rewarded. A fine nose of Perthshire raspberries, blueberry ("bluets" in French), red plum. This then developed into a wonderful combination of sweet spices such as aniseed, clove and cinnamon. Excellent length, a velvety texture, orange sanguine freshness. Yet still good fruit concentration... quintessence of pinot noir! Yes, it will be more interesting in 3 years but enough patience has been shown to enjoy this delicious bottle with some virtue. Scores 26/30 for a Volnay 1er Cru.