Pernand-Vergelesses 2004, Domaine Rollin Père et Fils

One whiff of this Pernand and I knew it would be true to the appellation and true to the vintage. That is a compliment to the wine-maker but to some extent a criticism of the village in this hard-to-ripen millésime. Raw licorice root, hawthorn bark, red currant leaf, chalk and unripe raspberry. Thin red currant fruit and vegetal flavours on the palate. Also a sensation of licking a dusty piece of flint. This wine is well-balanced and probably represents the best that could be squeezed from not-quite-ripe pinot in the tricky 2004 harvest. A true connoisseur's wine in the sense that if you don't understand the history you won't appreciate it at all. Photo shows a pinot berry in the Pernand vineyards in mid-September 2007.

Comments

  1. I went to the Pernand Growers tasting last Sunday and Rollin stood out as classical P-V. Well structured wines in both colours. An interesting grower was a My Guy who seemedt o be producing P-V on steroids - big fruit with some r-s? Almost Macconnais in style (think Thevenet) and quite atypical! Interesting stuff, though I think Rollin better balanced and is at the top of the tree (and Bonnau de Martray was there too!)

    Best, and thanks for a great blog!
    David

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