Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune 2002, Jean-Luc Joillot

The Domaine Jean-Luc Joillot, based in Pommard, owns 14 hectares of vineyards from simple Bourgoge rouge and Bourgogne aligoté up to the lofty heights of Beaune 1er Cru and Pommard 1er Cru. Jean-Luc took over the wine-making in 1981. This Hautes-Côtes de Beaune has a pleasing bright hue and a medium cherry colour. Dominated by berry bush aromas such as cassis, typical for the Hautes-Côtes, and apple leaves. Ten minutes of swirling and the wine offers more mature aromas of dried orange rind and a soupçon of licorice or fennel. Restrained like a little Jack Russell on a leash. Fresh high-altitude tannins with an astringent edge make this a well-structured wine coated with cherry, blackberry and red currant fruit. Plenty of grip! A very respectable offering from a tannic year. I plucked the photo from the domaine's website -- living the high life in Burgundy.

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