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Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2016, Bruno Clair

I finished the Justerini & Brooks annual Burgundy tasting on a high note with this Bonnes-Mares from Domaine Bruno Clair. The aromas spread themselves across a spectrum of ripe cherry and strawberry fruit with a touch of licorice and hazelnut. Rich, glorious, suave, mineral, fine, uplifting on the palate. Things to get excited about! Bigger tannins than many other 2016s, chewy, richer. I chose this Titian painting entitled "Venus with a Mirror" to represent this wine in part because of the reference to "good mothers" in the name of the wine but primarily because this wine is priced at a level comparable to Old Master paintings and should be considered a sheer luxury. At £2,500 per case of 12 bottles in bond this is very much a wine for the richest 0.1% of society. No wonder Venus covers her breast in modesty!

If 2017 prices are the same as 2016 then growers and merchants can no longer hide behind the fig leaf of a bad frost. We would be in a whole new phase of…

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